Keratin Hair Treatment Pros and Cons

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We spoke to two professional hairstylists, Michelle Dixon and Kim Kimble, to better understand the ins and outs of keratin treatments and whether or not they're a good option for Black hair. Below, they touch upon safety issues, benefits, potential side effects, how the formulas themselves work, what you can expect during the treatment, how to care for your hair after your keratin, and more. "Due to the chemicals and high heat temperatures your hair endures during a Brazilian Blowout, a sulfate-free, protein-based, reconstructive treatment is recommended," says Garwood. Moisture, Garwood reminds us, is what's needed to maintain smooth and healthy strands. Your moisture levels will always be dependent on your hair type.

Reported health effects

Although it depends largely on your hair type, texture, and styling routine, a Brazilian Blowout usually lasts around three to four months on average as long as you follow the proper aftercare protocol. He also recommends skipping this treatment if you’ve got damaged or brittle hair, are sensitive to strong smells, or if you’re pregnant or breastfeeding. Keratin treatments can make frizzy, thick hair easier to manage.

Method of concentration measurement

As new hair grows in, you'll need to head to the salon for a root touch-up. It's important to stay on top of your touch-ups as the line of demarcation between new growth and relaxed hair is fragile (especially for coily hair), so breakage is possible. The only way to get rid of relaxed hair and wear your natural texture is to chop off the relaxed part.

Pros of keratin treatments

While it’s non-greasy, this cream is best for thick and curly hair textures. (As lightweight as it is, it can be too much for fine hair.) It’s a little pricey, but consider it a one-and-done product, so you can streamline your getting-ready process. As with all chemical processes for the hair, a keratin hair treatment should be done by a professional, and you should always discuss any required preparation with them. That said, Lordet advises to lay off coloring your locks pre-treatment, as the chemical can strip out the color and alter it. Finally, you should make sure you're not sensitive to formaldehyde, as Taylor notes that it can cause reactions such as stinging, itching and burning eyes, nose and throat irritation, and a runny nose in those with sensitivities. (As a side note, keratin treatments are not recommended for women who are currently pregnant).

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There are several types of treatments that claim to make your hair straighter. Each relies on a different chemical formula and processing method. The product will process for a few minutes (usually 10 to 30) before it is blow-dried again. When the hair is dry, it will be flat ironed to set in the straight style. Then, the hair is rinsed and conditioned to add moisture back to the hair. A roller set is an old-school method of straightening that involves less direct heat than the above options.

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As both a Brazilian native and professional stylist, he’s very familiar with the treatment. Keratin treatments shouldn’t be done more than three times a year, as over time they can start to damage hair. Summer, when frizz is more pronounced because of humidity, is generally when people want to get them done. To weigh your hair-straightening options, read our break-down of each type below.

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Because it involves the strongest chemicals, it poses the greatest risks in terms of damaging your hair. Formaldehyde has been linked to health problems, especially for people who regularly work with it. The main health concern about formaldehyde in keratin products has been about salon workers, not people who get keratin hair treatments.

Wash Your Hair (Multiple Times)

Famed for its strand-softening and straightening abilities, keratin treatments have been trendy for the better part of the last decade, if not longer than that. To get the full lowdown, we grilled cosmetic chemists, as well as professional hairstylists, on what works (and what's safe). Here, find the eight things you — and your hair — need to know before you officially commit. During the process, a stylist will apply a keratin solution to your hair, just like they would hair color. They'll then blow your hair dry, and seal it with extreme temperatures—up to 450° F.

To spare yourself from dry, damaged hair post-straightening, add this affordable hydrating finishing serum to your product must-haves. With just a few spritzes, it smooths, protects, and gives you plenty of shine too. Thanks to a combo of coconut oil and coconut milk, it's also gentle and hydrating—always a good thing for curls.

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Unlike the post-keratin treatment routine, there aren't any restrictions as to what you can and can't do in terms of activity, so you won't have to skip out on your hot yoga class. Additionally, since the treatment is rinsed out in the salon, you can wait as long or as little as you'd like to wash it, but again, just be sure to use a sulfate- and chlorine-free formula to preserve it. Provided that you don't use shampoos that contain sulfates and chlorine, your treatment should last anywhere from three to four months — possibly longer if you don't need to wash your hair as regularly as some. Of course, the safest option of all is to avoid exposure to harmful chemicals that can absorb through your scalp and your nasal passages.

Aside from formaldehyde, these formulas contain a number of other strong, potentially hazardous ingredients as well. You may find professional-grade keratin treatments online available for purchase, but we strongly urge you not to purchase these formulas. If it's labeled as "professional use," then stay away, as these formulas are extremely dangerous for inexperienced users. Instead, we recommend purchasing a formaldehyde-free formula specifically for at-home use. The effects won't be quite as strong as a professional formula, but you also run significantly less risk of running into serious health complications from improper use.

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